Wilderness News - August 2009
Newsletter of Hiking New Zealand - No. 25
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IN THIS EDITION… |
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New brochures – the new Great Hikes and Adventures brochure is out now. There has been the inclusion of some great new tours in this brochure, including Kayaking in Abel Tasman, the Kaikoura Wilderness Walk and the Ultimate Explorer. Order now.
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Feature trip - Hollyford Track Day 1: The day begins early, (6.40 am actually) as you are picked up from your accommodation and head off to the first stop for coffee and muffins in Te Anau. This is also where we meet our guide, Chris. His opening statement to us all is about the evolution of webbed feet in Fiordland National Park and in particular in the Hollyford Track. Thoughts run through your head like, “what are we in for and what does he know that we don’t?” We arrive at the start of the track after a quick stop in at the historic Gunn’s Camp at the beginning of the Hollyford Valley. Packs are strapped to our backs, wet weather gear is handy and we head off. We walk through beech forest to the sounds of NZ birdlife. On the left hand side of the valley we catch glimpses of snow capped mountains and on the right hand side of the valley we pass an array of waterfalls as they cascade down the mountains to join the Hollyford River. Chris makes well timed stops along the way and has us eating red berries, listening for how the water is transported to the tree tops and pointing out lots of fauna and flora of which most of the Latin names have now gone from this brain of mine. Lunch is at Sunshine Hut which is definitely well named as we are shrouded in sunshine. A fresh cup of tea is brewed and all is well with the world and our group of eight. We have a quick check of the feet and so far no webbing between the toes and I am now thinking about sunscreen. We are greeted by friendly staff, cool drink and hot showers. This is bliss and certainly a great way to go hiking in NZ. Three courses of local cuisine, which is very good. The BBQ vension steak is delicious. After some good conversation and a chance to feed eels and see glow worms, we all are off to our beds. Day 2: We awake to rain and lots of it and a thought that I should check those feet again as I figure some webbing between the toes might come in very handy today, not to mention a snorkel. After a hearty breakfast we are off to check out Lake Alabaster and are told stories of Davey Gunn. He was an early pioneer who tried his hand at beef farming in this remote valley and then turned his hand to tourism and was the founder of the ‘Hollyford guided track’. We have an hour out and about splashing through puddles, checking out the “Demon Trail” (a small part of the freedom walk), and soaking up the atmosphere before we take all our packs to the jet boat and board this powerful boat to join the Hollyford River and Lake MacKerrow. As we approach the river you can tell there has been a huge amount of rain over night as the colour of the river is a mud brown and there are a number of floating logs and branches in the swollen river. After an hour, with some careful manoeuvring by a very skilled driver we are deposited at the top end of Lake MacKerrow, where we splash through more puddles and wade through knee high streams. With weather like this, it really is Fiordland National Park at its best. Waterfalls are crashing down from sheer rock faces and the trees seem ‘greener’ and the mosses are alive and dancing with colour and movement with the rain that is coming down from above. Surprisingly the birds still sing their hearts out. Our destination is Martins Bay Lodge but first we have to negotiate a couple of swollen streams and of course be immersed in rich West Coast Rainforest with towering Podocaps. Lunch and a hot cup of tea were very welcome. Day Two finishes with a hot shower, another three course meal and relaxing by a roaring fire - another day in paradise. Day 3: Awake to overcast skies and the occasional rain shower but this is nothing compared to yesterday. I love the history here. The South Coast Maori were here for food and possibly greenstone collecting. Following them were the early pioneers – Mackenzie’s and Davey Gunn. We have lots of inspirational musing from our guide about these incredible people. They had to put up with dramatic and changeable weather conditions, bush that was determined to hold its ground, the loneliness of this place, millions of sandflies and then the occasional tourist in the latter years. To finish our Hollyford experience we walk for a couple of hours down the beach. Time to think about the landscapes we have seen, the experiences we have had and all the fun and enjoyment. Sadly it is time to prepare for life back behind the computer in the ‘real’ world. One final adventure awaits us as after lunch - we board our flight back into Milford Sound. This flight is stunning as you fly down this Sound with it sheer rock walls and thundering waterfalls. Our bus awaits and then it is homeward bound, with feet intact and no webbing! You leave behind awe-inspiring scenery and great people but you take with you a lifetime of memories and of course a desire to go back the next chance you get. |
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If you, like Glenys, have had an adventure that has been firmly planted in your memory, tell us about it. Published stories will win a Hiking New zealand merino. Send your link to us at info@hikingnewzealand.com |
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