Wilderness News - April 2009
Newsletter of Hiking New Zealand - No. 24
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IN THIS EDITION… |
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What can I do in Winter in NZ? The tracks are quiet, the snow-capped mountains provide amazing scenery, and there is plenty to do from June to September. New Zealand transforms to a winter wonderland, but that doesn’t mean you have to be able to ski to enjoy what’s on offer! |
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Feature trip - Ski touring Good weather. We set out early from Lake Tekapo to Mt Cook airport. There are superb views across Lake Pukaki to the Alps which are touched by dawn pink. The Porter takes 8 passengers and all seats are filled; skis are piled high inside the plane and folk are nursing day packs on their laps. There’s a seat beside the pilot and being the only dagg with a DSLR dangling from his chest I win the prize. We take off and head up the Tasman Glacier valley. The pilot gets out his paperwork and starts filling it out. ‘Warn me when we’re about to hit something’ he says as we’re pointed to the East valley wall. I decide he’s joking but don’t stop watching. It’s about a 30 km trip and we get awesome views of the moraine, the glacier, the peaks and the intersecting glaciers. The scale is beyond words. We get up to the headwall of the Tasman and spy Kelman and Tasman Saddle huts. The pilot warns he will do a touch down and take off on the neve to test conditions and then fly back to land. The thermometer in the window beside me spells out around -5 C. We’re down. Us three tourers get out and the Porter heads elsewhere to drop off the downhillers. We’re kitted up with harnesses, ice axes, and transceivers with crampons in the pack. The snow is soft. I’m sinking 10 cm or so on my XC skis which are 69mm wide underfoot. Sam and Charlie are on AT gear. Sam instructs. We’ll ski down a pitch and then skin up to the Ledenfeld Saddle. We are to stay well behind him and to the right for the downhill run. Keep out of each other’s tracks. We do it. But the snow is so deep that I’m exhausting myself to steer the skis. Can only manage tight turns followed by traverses. My problem is fear of speed having done in one knee a few years ago. But I manage to get to the bottom without falling over. Then it’s skins on - a first for me - and we start a walk up to the saddle. It feels seriously daggy, having to push skis forward on the snow and set the skins. But there’s huge grip and the change of zig to zag is easy with small steps. My chest is heaving. Maybe it’s the altitude - around 2200m - and I’m not as fit as I’d thought. The scenery is also literally breath-taking and I’m a little spooked by the magnitude of it all. Sam gets me close behind him, taking the small steps forward that he’s pacing. I decide to do what I’ve told my kids to do on uphill walks: start an internal mental chant … one, two, three four, two, two three four, three two … etc. It works. We get to look west over the centre of the Southern Alps. On a clear day you can see the beaches on the West Coast but that side is clouded today. We drop down a crappy slope of soft sastrugi and powder pockets. I’m managing a mish mash of traverses and snow plough turns. My technique drops back to survival level when I’m knackered. We see a good sized soft snow avalanche off the face opposite as we go down. We head back towards the main part of the Tasman on another pitch of soft snow. Sam instructs again. Watch out for that bright spot down over to the right; it’s a snow covered crevasse. I guess that it’s bright cos the light shines through the snow bridge over it. Sam and Charlie make it look easy doing parallels on their gear. I’m back to zig zags trying to tele and fall over once. At the bottom of that pitch I decide to prop and take some photos. The others spy a nice gully among the ice blocks and skin upwards to it. I see a party of four tourers doing a gully on the East side; it seems close enough but in the photo they come up as pin pricks. All around us are high peaks, minor glaciers, seracs and a vast vista down the Tasman. You could stand here sucking it in til your toes got frozen and not notice. But we have a flight to catch and when the others have done their thing we cruise down to the pick-up point. Following in their tracks I speed up and threaten to rear-end them and have to ski to the side to slow down. We have four days to walk in and out and tour from the Rex Simpson private hut at the foot of Two Thumb Range north of Lake Tekapo town (alt. 1280m). We drive out, lash our skis to packs and start the 3 hour walk up to the hut in our ski boots. The T2x’s are surprisingly comfortable but an ingrown toe nail takes a bashing. On the way back it’s wrapped in Melolin and I don’t feel a thing. Charlie and Sam though have their AT boots to walk in and they have my sympathy. They don’t need it though. The grass plain is waterlogged in places and we have to do a deal of tussock hopping. Soon it gets steeper and I discover how unfit I am. Sam waits from time to time with good patience, while remarking several times what I must have in the heavy pack. He and Charlie have their clothes, food, crampons and ice axes neatly stowed in and on their 45l jobs. My 80l pack is full in part with gear recommended for the Tasman and no longer necessary at lower altitudes. Would I go back? Like a shot. For the big mountain stuff. Thanks Ern for a great story. Thank you also to Ern Reeders and Charlie Mowbray for use of photographs. |
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Recently Hiking New Zealand featured in the online International Lifestyle Magazine. After researching what was currently on offer in New Zealand, Editor Lynn Nicholson approached Hiking New Zealand, discovering that a hiking safari can cater for all ages, backgrounds and budgets. An excerpt from the article: “When you mention hiking to people they tend to think of hippies traipsing through the countryside, making tents, eating mung beans and singing camp songs, but there is so much more to hiking, in particular the health benefits. The secret of good health comes not only from eating well, but the whole package; the mental, the emotional and the physical, and for those of you who feel that sweating in a gym simply is not an option then you should seriously consider hiking, for this is exercising whilst taking in plenty of fresh air and it gives you time to think, to clear your head of the daily rubbish we all collect and store, resulting in stress, that has a serious effect on our health. Lets also consider that women are always told to consider osteoporosis and to look for ways to prevent it, yes you can buy into medication and expensive drug options but hiking will help prevent it naturally. The gentle force of gravity helps to increase bone density and slows the loss of calcium, so you can strengthen your bones and make them less susceptible of breaking, and taking a hike will have a gentler effect on your body than walking on the pavement. So, if you are looking to change how you look and feel you need to organise yourself on a hiking trek, and what better place than New Zealand in particular, Hiking New Zealand. “The point is, if you never take a moment out of your life to really appreciate what the world holds for you, if you never move away from your computer or simply turn off your cell phone you will find that you miss out on so much. As the saying goes “If you don’t make time how will you ever have time?” Understanding yourself is so important in maintaining good health and having the peace and quiet to really listen to your own personal needs is essential. No loud music, no sweaty gyms, no running through the street breathing in the toxins of traffic, just you and nature. Perfect.” Click here to see the full online version of International Lifestyle. |
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The Lake Waikaremoana hike has been ranked as the third best guided walk in New Zealand in the latest issue of Wilderness Magazine. The track itself was ranked as the number one multi-day tramp in New Zealand. The success comes from smooth operations despite difficult logistics, attention to detail, and the quality of the walk. Click here to see the trip dossier of the Lake Waikaremoana guided hike, and find out for yourself why it ranks among the best in New Zealand. Beginning in Rotorua, you will enjoy an all-inclusive guided hike: your walk package includes hiking equipment, gear cartage, delicious meals and wine, accommodation, snacks and refreshments, and professional, knowledgeable guides. |
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