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Personal Encounter
Mount Cook and the Mountaineering Pastry Chef
by Anthony Benson
For inexperienced mountaineers the guided Ball Pass Alpine Trek provides an opportunity to experience Mount Cook at close quarters.
It isn’t necessary to hire a guide, indeed anyone can climb Ball Pass. Just like anyone can, if they wish, pick a fight with Mike Tyson. However I imagine it’s a much more enjoyable experience fighting Iron Mike if a guide with an ice axe has been hired in advance.
Our expert on the trip, Martin, greeted me along with the other clients: Simon, his wife Sandra and sister Lindsey at the guiding base at Lake Tekapo.
A thorough equipment check resulted in me borrowing everything from long johns to gloves. I set out to attack the mountain, unperturbed but slightly sickened by my vivid pink hat and lime green gloves.
The first part of the trek ran parallel to the Tasman Glacier. This bleak glacier is covered in rock and ends in a grey iceberg ridden terminal pool. The existence of this pool means the glacier will start to recede more rapidly.
If the hugely popular west coast Fox and Franz Josef glaciers are the Posh and Becks of the glacier world, the Tasman would have to be Jason Donovan. Receding. Quickly.
After lunch at Ball Hut, we made the challenging but rewarding ascent to the impressive Caroline Hut. It consisted of eight comfortable bunks, two gas stoves and a wood burner that heated the place so well that I was sweating in my borrowed long johns.
As the evening unfolded the weather set in. Tucked up inside the hut we were all suitably impressed when out of some dirt, three carrots and a peanut Martin concocted a very tasty lentil curry.
The following day we ventured out across the ice slopes to a peak overlooking Mount Cook and the Hooker Valley. Along the way Martin carefully demonstrated how to self arrest (stop) when falling down a mountain, backwards and upside down.
That night there was very little wind and so we could appreciate just how active the mountain really is. Between the powerful avalanches of crashing snow and rock there were loud cracks and groans. This is a landscape that is still very much taking shape.
The next morning we fastened harnesses, strapped on crampons and marched away into the dark. After traversing across an ice field we reached a saddle - Ball Pass. Here the ridge continues up to the summit of Mount Cook. The day was so still it almost looked climbable, just like Mike Tyson doesn’t look all that big on the telly. Fat even.
We descended steadily, Martin expertly guiding us across scree slopes, rocks and ice. Once in the Hooker Valley the walk levelled out into lush green vegetation alongside the Hooker River.
In my mind the success of any excursion is defined by three things; the guide, the people, the scenery. If any one of these is weak then the whole trip can change from great to rubbish.
Touring the Himalayas guided by Michael Palin should be a great trip, but with Trinny and Susannah along for the ride no doubt criticising Palin’s choice of chino and my borrowed long johns...well...I’m sure the excursion would be miserable.
In this case though, Mount Cook provided a dramatic backdrop, Martin provided expertise and energy to the group, and Simon, Sandra and Lindsey provided fun, easy-going company.
I’d do it all again in an instant.
© Anthony Benson, 2008
Anthony joined the Ball Pass Alpine Trek on 23 December, 2007. He receives a FREE Hiking New Zealand merino for his story.
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